The Indigenous fashion sector in Australia is growing, and First Nations Fashion + Design (FNFD) has played a pivotal role in making that happen. The not-for-profit organisation was the first to present an all-Indigenous runway at Australian Fashion Week in 2021 — that is, one led by and featuring Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander people and brands.
As it continues championing Indigenous designers and creatives, it has now joined forces with online retailer The Iconic for THE ICONIC x FNFD Incubator Program.
The pilot program takes on three First Nations fashion designers, Elverina Johnson of label Pink Fish, Mt. Isa designers Glenda, Jaunita, Dale and Cheryl Mcculloch of label Myrrdah, and Briana Enoch of label Jarawee. They will work with fashion industry mentors P.E Nation's Pip Edwards, Johnny Schembri of By Johnny, and Laura Liles and Tristan Liles, of Kinga Csilla, as well as cultural mentors, Curator, First Nations Art at the National Gallery of Victoria, Shonae Hobson, Founder and Creative Director of Maara Collective, Julie Shaw and General Manager, Cox Inall Ridgeway and Board Member, Australian Fashion Council, Yatu Widders Hunt.
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FNFD’s Founder and Chair, Grace Lillian Lee describes it as a "two-way learning experience for everyone involved", with the Indigenous designers attending workshops and events that cover everything from branding and business plans, design and product development to merchandising, marketing and commercialisation.
Mentor Pip Edwards said that it's just as much of a learning experience for her, as she learns more about the designers' "passion and interpretation of print, colour and texture, which is so special and unique".
At the end of the program, each designer will have the opportunity to take part in an e-commerce shoot, and will also be invited to sell their collection on The Iconic in the future.
Refinery29 Australia spoke to the three designers about the experience, what fashion means to them, and the importance of First Nations representation in the fashion industry.
Elverina Johnson (Pink Fish)
What does fashion mean to you?
Fashion means so many things to me. To me, it means an expression of who I am, and the stories I want to share in what I wear or want others to wear. For as long as I can remember, I had always been intrigued by fashion, but I have always been creative on different platforms as a performer and artist. It's another form of storytelling for me. I love being in this space.
Have you always wanted to be involved in the fashion industry?
I have always wanted to be in fashion, but never had the opportunity to pursue it until I met Grace Lillian Lee, the Founder of FNFD, who invited me to be part of the design program a few years ago. I have been part of a few fashion shows over the years, and now here I am.
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Where do usually draw inspiration from for your designs?
I usually draw my inspiration from being on Country in my community of Yarrabah in Far North Queensland, and from the ocean, as Yarrabah is situated nicely between the rainforest and the sea.
What are your thoughts on the representation of First Nations people in the wider fashion industry?
I think it's great that First Nations fashion is now pushing through the forefront of Australian fashion, and it's about time that First Nations designers are given the opportunity to show their craft on the bigger stage. But it shouldn't stop there. It needs to have the same effect on a global scale as well.
The Australian fashion industry has a big role to play in making sure that they open doors for First Nations designers. It should not have taken this long. Why it's taken this long is a question the fashion industry needs to address itself.
What does being a part of THE ICONIC X FNFD Incubator Program mean to you?
I am extremely excited and proud to be part of the program. Given that it's the first one makes it even more special, and that it is being shared with three other amazing Queensland designers. I hope that the end result is that we are able to get our label out there in a much broader spectrum of the fashion industry, with more inside knowledge and experience from our mentors.
What are your future hopes for your brand?
My future hopes for my brand are to have a few outlets and go global on a big scale. Being part of this program is a step in that direction.
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Briana Enoch (Jarawee)
What does fashion mean to you?
Like our Elders and ancestors had passed on our dreamtime stories through rock art, songlines and language, fashion will be another medium to bring our stories and wealth of cultural connection in the most contemporary and vibrant way that Australian fashion has ever seen.
Have you always wanted to be involved in the fashion industry?
Yes, I always dreamed of bringing together my two loves of culture and fashion in a unique way. I started this dream by hand-painting heels and handbags, that would eventually catch the attention of renowned fashion icon and shoe designer Jimmy Choo, who showered me with beautiful comments about my artwork and skill on the heels and clutch.
Where do you usually draw inspiration from for your designs?
I draw inspiration from the stories and connection to Country. I love being on Country, because it inspires the designs through the movement of the wind, the water, and the sand and inspires the colours I use.
What are your thoughts on the representation of First Nations people in the wider fashion industry?
I am overjoyed and proud to know that Liandra Swim made another historical moment at Australian Fashion Week. She has come a long way and is leading our First Nation fashion designers in the swimwear space. In 2021, FNFD also made a historical moment to have an all-First Nations designer show, which I was a part of. You will see more First Nations designers come through this space than ever before. We are not just a trend of this era, we are here to stay!
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What does being a part of THE ICONIC X FNFD Incubator Program mean to you?
I felt honoured to be selected in the final three for THE ICONIC x FNFD Incubator Program, that will be the stepping stone for the future of First Nations designers.
I’m excited to learn how to be a viable and sustainable fashion label and to connect and build lasting business relationships with industry networks. I’m striving to create a luxury label that will showcase at the biggest platforms in the fashion industry, with my clothing and fashionable accessories seen nationally and internationally. I’m hoping that my mentors can guide me through the manufacturing process.
What are your future hopes for your brand?
I’m hoping one day to have my own high-end boutique in North Queensland, and that every capital city will be a destination for all to buy a JARAWEE design.
Glenda Mcculloch (Myrrdah)
What does fashion mean to you?
It’s a way of expressing who you are without saying a word.
Have you always wanted to be involved in the fashion industry?
Yes, since we very young girls. Mum being a sewer and making us clothes had a huge influence on us.
Where do you usually draw inspiration from for your designs?
We draw inspiration from each other as five sisters growing up very closely always sharing clothes and receiving hand-me-downs. We wanted pieces that will be worn by all shapes and sizes, and clothing that is going last for years to come.
What are your thoughts on the representation of First Nations people in the wider fashion industry?
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In my opinion, honestly I feel that the fashion space was not a space for Blak people.
What does being a part of THE ICONIC X FNFD Incubator Program mean to you?
We are extremely grateful to be a part of the Incubator Program. This is something we could only dream of being apart of a couple of years ago. We hope to take away necessary tools to help to continue building our brand and broaden our customer reach.
What are your future hopes for your brand?
To be successful and to be a standalone household name.
Answers have been edited for length and clarity.
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